The separatist region of Transnistria, a narrow strip of land between the Dniester river and the Ukrainian border in South Eastern Europe, proclaimed independence from Moldova in 1990.

The international community, however, does not recognise its self-declared statehood.Transnistria has often been described as a hotbed of crime, corruption and arms smuggling.

But the allegations, that it has ever, at any time in the past, trafficked arms or nuclear material, have not been confirmed. It is despite its meager reputation in the West essentially a safe space to visit.

The poor human rights record of Transnistrian authorities - manifested for example in suppression of free media - as well as low standard of living of its citizens nevertheless indicate that life in Transnistria is hardly any better than in Moldova separation from which the Transnistrian government so vigorously defends.

Transnistrian people

Ethnic Moldavians compose the plurality with 31.9%, followed by ethnic Russians 30.4%, and Ukrainians 28.8%. Smaller numbers of Bulgarians, Poles, Germans, Jews, Gagauz, Belorussians and others make up the rest. Most Transnistrians are Orthodox Christians. Diputes, however, arise form the fact that ethnic Moldavians prefer to use Latin alphabet instead of the official Russian alphabet. Several Moldovan schools using Latin script have been closed by the authorities recently.

History

The area of current Transnistria had been since the 18th century a part of Russian empire, it became Autonomous Moldavian Republic in Soviet Ukraine in the interwar period and in 1940 it was included together with a part of Bessarabia in a newly created Moldavian SSR whose borders are identical with those of current Moldova. With the breakup of Soviet union and recurrence of Moldovan nationalism manifested in language laws requiring proficiency in the Moldovan language and Latin alphabet Transnistrians, who did not speak Moldovan, unilaterally declared independence of Transnistria officially called Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR). The following conflict between newly established PMR and Moldova in 1992 resulted in more than a thousand casualties a was ended with help of Russian peacekeepers. But the relations between PMR and Moldova have despite no more violent clashes remained tense. And no final solution to the issue has so far been devised partly to the continuing presence of Russian peacekeepers who should have withdrawn according to the peace treaties.

What to do in Transnistria

Similarly to neighbouring Moldova Transnistria is a country of unspoiled nature, orthodox churches and wineries. Soviet symbolism still widespread or sometimes even reused in this surreal country might contribute to a truly extraordinary traveller’s experience from this small piece of land in Eastern Europe.